ITALIAN TRANSLATIONITALIAN TRANSLATION
Photos by: Francesco Venneri |
Fotografie di Photos by: Caterina Minardi |
Amongst the traditions that are still in exhistence, is the yearly ritual of the killing of the pigs.However, in this case, it is perhaps more accurate to describe this event not merely a tradition but a ritual borne of pure need. The breeding of pigs was undertaken to provide sustenance during the winter months and, for this purpose, it represented an important food source since the meat, processed according to old and proven formulations, could be conserved for long periods.In fact, for many years, the pig [which was raised with great sacrifices] was one of the few food sources capable of sustaining entire clans and every part of the animal was utilized via various processing methods and thus consumed during the whole year. These events have been confirmed by the so called; Murattian Statistic, which used to serve as a model for all private and public polls and gives an accurate documentation of the foods consumed by the poor class in comparison to the nutritional habits of the rich.
The killing of the pigs was a festive occasion for young and old who seized the moment to celebrate the event with dances, songs and merrymaking while sharing a glass of wine with friends in front of crackling f ireplaces.In reality, the event resembled a true ritual,as the pigs were butchered and processed for conservation during a two or three day period. The active participation of the head of the household was considered to be a good omen.
The first day was devoted to the shaving of the dead pig's skin and general cleaning of the sides; the butchering of the meat followed. The blood of the pig was collected in special containers by the women of the clan and processed into blood-pudding [sanguinacciu]. The blood was boiled together with other ingredients[raisins, pinenuts, sweet wine, walnuts and orange skins] until it attained a creamy consistency. The shaving of the outer skin of the pig was done with very sharp knives to remove all hairy substances accurately softened by boiling water.The cleaned and shaven animal ws strung up by its hind legs on a wooden scaffold called 'sgammellu'. The butchering of the pig was done by specialists who sectioned the dead animal in four parts. They usually started from the head whose meat was used to make a special salami called [u vujhularu], which is cured for a very long time after being treated with salt and a lot of red pepper dust. The butchering continued by cutting open the belly of the animal and extracting the intestines and then cutting the pig in two halfs.,
The two sections of the animal were then cut in several pieces utilizing very sharp knives; from the choicest pieces of meat they prepared a special salami called [capeccuollo].The shoulders, thighs, ribs etc., every part of the animal had a precise role; the selection was painstaking as all meat cleaned from the bones was made into sausages and salami. The loin, the choisest piece of meat, was cut into chops. The bones and skin of the pig were used to make 'frittule' [a type of spam];boiled in a large pot together with pieces of lard. The making of the frittule triggered a second banquet, held the day after the butchering of the pigs. The meat selected for sausages and salami was left to c ool overnight prior to being ground and processed.
The cutting of the meat in small pieces was done by hand with very sharp knives. It was placed in a large wooden tub and mixed with salt and pepper for sausages and granular black pepper for soppressata.The first day concluded with a banquet based on pasta and ragu made with ribs and pectoral bones of the pig; pieces of liver, wrapped in intestinal nettings were fried and seasoned and consumed with pickled vegetables and wine. The morning after was devoted to making sausages and salami. The casings derived from the intestines of the animal,meticulously cleaned and selected the day before, were filled with sausage meat utilizing small wooden funnels. The sausages were then tied in bundles and hung up to dry while the various salami were placed in large wicker baskets to drain. After being carefully stuffed, the soppressate were subjected to compression by heavy rocks to improve conservation. In these towns, the soppressata is made exclusively from the pork fillet seasoned with salt and black pepper only.It is interesting to note that in ancient Greece the pork fillet was considered the choicest meat and was reserved for its heroes and thosed who distinguished themselves in heroic deeds. The quality and care of preparation of this product by the Calabrese artisans is,perhaps, attributed to the ancient traditions.
After preparation, the salami was hung from the ceiling on long poles and cured in apporopriate smoke houses. After two months, the salami were preserved in ashes from forest firewood or conserved in enamelized terracotta containers immersed in piig's fat. The consumption of the soppressate was always accompanied by the best meal of the house and the best wine.
Hoofs, tail, tongue and what remained from the head of the animal, were boiled in salt water. After being deboned their meat was immersed in vinegar to crate 'u suzzu' or gelatine which, after being seasoned with different spices, was conserved in small terracotta vases covered with fat.Part of the innards and choice pieces of meat were given in gift to relatives and friends for a tasting. These offerings usually contained some of the best meats of the pig, including the liver which was considered a delicacy. The Romans considered the liver the most important part of the pig and they used it in sacrificial offerings to the Gods, the Lari who were considered to be protectors of the family.This could be the reason the Calabrese hold special family feasts during this event.Plato considered the liver to be amirror which reflected our thoughts while alive and, after death, retained the contemplative images of the soul.The traditional sacrifice of the killing of the pigs by the Salianese and other Calabrese begins before Xmas and lasts through Carnival
